The vineyards of southwestern French stretch from the edge of Sauternes in Bordeaux to Toulouse in the southeast and down to the Spanish border. The area encompasses the Atlantic-influenced microclimates of the Dordogne and the Landes. There are around 30 appellations in all, mostly in isolated pockets of vineyards. A number of these wines were once regarded as serious commercial rivals by the Bordelaise. The vine was cultivated here by the Romans with winemaking being seriously developed in the Middle Ages through the influence of Monks and Monasteries.
The difficulties involved in getting the wines downstream meant that they struggled to establish themselves in the marketplace. The result is that today a lot of the appellations are still relatively obscure.

The Wine

This tasting focused on some of the better-known appellation of this region. Some of the grape varieties tasted include Petit Manseng, Melbec and Tannat. The overall qualities of the wine tasted were high. The appellation of Madiran stood out. Most of the wines tasted were red. Although a lot of them had hard tannin, there are enough fruit in most cases to balance the tannin. We finished the tasting with a couple of sweet wines with very different style.

Tasting Notes

Chateau Jolys Jurancon Sec 2003 $22
This is a region famous for its sweet wines. A small portion of dry white wine is also made and this is one of them. Made from Gros Manseng, a grape that is not seen outside France. A relatively cool area, the nose of this wine is like white flowers with some pine nuts and honeysuckles. A hint of botrytis also coming though. The palate is light and dry with refreshingly sharp acidity. Simple finish (2)

Domaine Du Mas Blanc Collioure "Llose" 2000 $32
Dirty raisin like on the nose with hints of animal fur. I picked this to be Grenache dominant wine (50% Grenache, 30% Mouvedre, 20% Syrah), with vanish and dry flowers. The palate is dry with ash like tannin, smoky and oxidative. Not really my style. (1.5- 2-)

Domaine Du Mas Blanc Collioure "Clos de Moulin" 2001 $59
Dark in colour with black pepper and mineral, it is made from 90% Mouvedre. The fruit is ripe on the palate with plum and figs. a lot of tannin on the finish with relatively low acidity. This is a big wine with oaky finish (3)

Brumont Madiran "Torus" 2001 $23
Ash on the nose with dark stone fruit. The palate is ripe with sweet fruit and oak. Big wine with dry raisins and hot finish. Pleasant full bodied wine. (3)

Chateau d'Aydie Madiran 2001 $36
This wine is mostly Tannat with a dash of Merlot. Dark in colour with complex aroma of fruit and oak. Although not yet integrated, the components are very impressive. On the palate, the sweet fruit coat your tongue with espresso and dark chocolate. Dry finish with very firm tannin and structure. There are some spice and herb also coming though after 10 minutes in the glass. This is a very impressive wine with many years ahead of it. (4)

Chateau Bouscasse Madiran Vieilles Vignes 2000 $58
Very deep and dark in colour with initial aromas of preserved/candid mandarin peel. It has fantastic bouquet of exotic spice backed up by baked dark cheery and plum. There is still some dustiness with mineral ash on the nose. On the palate, this is a massive wine with complex ripe fruit and masses amount of tannin. The great structure promises many years to come, but it is already a great drink. (4+)

Chateau Du Cedre Cahors Cuvee Prestige 2001 $33
Mostly Melbec, it has dry herb and mixed spice with nutmeg and clove. Extremely sweet fruit on the palate with ripe but massive tannin. Almost port like, it is borderline over ripe. Low in acidity and this is not really my style. (3-)

Chateau Du Cedre Cahors Le cedre 2000 $77
Melbec and Merlot, this has cassis and black berry on the nose with mineral ash and smoked meats. Again it is extremely ripe with thick mouth coating fruit. Very concentrated with creamy oak and tannic finish. Impressive but a bit more reserved at the same time. (4-)

Chateau d'Aydie Pacherenc de Vic Bilh 2001
This is the white wine of Madiran. Made from Petit Manseng, it is deep gold in colour. Honey marmalade on the nose with citrus and vanilla. Some pear liquor coming through as well. Rich and luscious with sweet concentration. It is slightly oxidised in style with slightly spicy on the finish. Good acidity and length. (4)

Mas Blanc Banyuls Rimage 2001
Banyuls is a Vin Doux Naturels chiefly from Grenache. It has been fashionable in the last 20 years. Domaine du Mas Blanc is one of the top producers in that region. This wine reminded me of preserved orange peel with slightly medicinal character. Very sweet and big in body, fermentation was stopped at around 6% Alc and spirit added to strengthen. Expressive and ripe with oxidative finish. It is French version of Port. (3)