Continuing the decade's exceptional run of high quality Côte d'Or red Burgundy vintages 1996 produced firm, deeply flavoured wines for medium to long term drinking. The dominant taste characteristics of 1996 Pinot Noir in Burgundy were essentially dictated by two spells of freak weather. First, a solid fortnight of 30+ degrees centigrade days at the start of June ensured perfect flowering and, its corollary, a large crop. Second, exceptional dry, clear September weather sent grape sugar levels soaring, as photosynthesis responded to luminously bright daylight. Temperatures remained chilly, however, and acidities scarcely budged. Harvest thus bought a most unusual combination for Burgundy: high sugars, high acids, high phenolic ripeness...and high yields. The bans de vendanges were proclaimed between 11th September (the Beaujolais) and 26th September (Hautes-Côtes); most domaines in the Côte d'Or, both north and south, were harvesting by 20th September. Ripeness, natural acidity and colour being easy to come by, the only question mark concerns yields. Communal appellation limits, set at 52hl/hectare, were frequently exceeded where bunch thinning or green harvests were not carried out.

With high levels of malic acidity in their grapes, many growers initially were concerned that the wines would turn out tart or angular. And the malolactic fermentations proceeded slowly, in many cases not finishing until June or July. (In fact some wines had not finished in November!) The 96 reds display the same crisp acids as the whites from this vintage, but, by and large, the acids of 96 are ripe and serve to brighten the fruit. Tannins are generally firm but unobtrusive.

Often paired with 1993, a Burgundy vintage with similarly high phenolic ripeness, 1996 abounds in notes of licorice, mocha and chocolate, with additional red fruit acidity. The abundant tannins and acidity are certainly allowing the most concentrated examples to age magnificently.

The wine

This tasting concentrated on the wines from the Cote De Nuits region, with only one wine from Pommard in the Cote de Beaune. Most of the wine in showed very well, they were in the "good" to "very good" range, but not exceptional. These wines come from domaines which are, by and large, highly regarded.

The stand out for me is the wines from Vosne Romanee. All of the Grand Crus showed very well structurally, but lack the excitement I expected from them. Perhaps we caught these wines in a phase where they're not as open or opulent. Perhaps, since these have good cellaring potential, I found these to be a bit shy on the "charm" scale.

Tasting Notes

Domaine Gros Feres et Soeur Hautes Cotes de Nuits 1996
I was told this wine showed very well upon release, the high use of oak and modern winemaking technique of high extracts made the wine highly appeal when young. However, tonight the wine is brick with brown rims. Ripe prune and some cherry on the nose. The palate is disappointing with the fruit mostly faded and the sharp acidity now made the wine unbalanced. Tannic and smoky on the finish with very little fruit. (2)

Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle Musigny 1996
A village wine with 25% new oak. The colour is medium red. The nose showed more earth and shitake mushrooms. Sweet fruit on the palate with creaminess oak, flashy fruit with some harsh tannic finish. Good amount of acidity to keep the wine fresh. Well made wine. (3)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1996
Clear and shining with lot more red in colour compare with the last two. The nose is reserved initially but very much focused with dark fruit showing through. I picked up some exotic spice and soy as well. The tannin is silky and the fruit is lush. A clear jump in quality from the last wine. A much more complete wine with ripe fruit and tannin. (4-)

Domaine Anne Gros Vosne Romanee "Les Barreaux" 1996
25% new oak, this wine is dark in colour with black cherry and mixed spice on the nose. The fruit intensity on the nose is incredible with fantastic sweet fruit on the palate. Ripe tannin with seamless use of oak, good concentration and balance with firm acidity. I did feel this wine had plenty of reserve to last many years to come. After 30 minutes in the glass, the wine opened up more with perfume and rich fruit. A pleasant surprise from the village wine (5-)

Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru "Les Rugiens" 1996
The only Cote de Beaune in this tasting, lighter in colour with earthiness coming though strong on the nose, distinctive and very much different from the rest of the wine. Developed palate with sweetness. This is lush and fuller bodied than the colour suggest. Good amount of acidity with slightly hot finish. (3+)

Michel Gros Vosne Romanee 1er Cru "Clos des Reas" 1996
Upon opening, the nose was rotten vegetable, forest floor and reminded me of boiled asparagus. High toned and some VA, the palate is however supple with tastiness. Quite tannic but with enough fruit to back up the tannin and the oak. With time, the wine took on some weight and became richer. (4)

Denis Bachelet Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin 1996
Quite dark in colour with complex flower, spice and soy aroma. Very ripe on the nose with focus, on the palate, the wine coats the tongue with sweet fruit and silky tannin. The tannin, fruit and acidity integrate nicely with great structure and potential for many years to come. The finish is a bit hot but very long. Pleasant to taste and it might turn into something great in year to come. (4+)

Gros Frere & Soeur Grand Cru Clos Vougeot 1996
He famous vineyard of Clos Vougeot can produce some of the very best wine in the world, but often it is disappointing. With more than 50 ha of vines and 80 owners, it is the largest Grand Cru in Cote de Nuits. This wine showed well with nutmeg, spice and red berries on the nose. The palate is lean compare to other Grand Crus from this vintage with tannin and somewhat hard finish. The fruit start to fade after 30 minutes in the glass reveal the heavy usage of oak. Pleasant but nowhere near the vineyard's potential. (4-)

Comte Georges De Vogue Grand Cru Bonnes Mares 1996
This is the heavy hitter of the line up. The wine is flash in style with black fruit intertwined with earth and spice. Fruit driven on the palate with layers of clever oak. The tannin is ripe and sweet with good complex finish. No doubt it is a good wine, but did not quite hit the heights you would expect from this producer with this vineyard. (4+)