Chablis & Maconnais 2000
(October 2004 - Simon Zhou)

Chablis

The Vineyards of Chablis are organised around 20 villages either side of the Serein River. In one block overlooking the village of Chablis are the 7 Grand Crus: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, Vaudesir. The 40 premier crus are spread either side. What is confusing in Chablis is the tendency of lesser known 1er crus to use the name of their better know primary climate eg Vaupoulent, Cote de Fontenay, L'Homme Mort and Vaulorent can all bottle as 1er Cru Fourchaume.

Maconnais

The Maconnais is a big place with roughly 5,500 HA of vines in production. The vineyards are scattered over a large 30 mile area starting slightly south of Tournus in a village called Chardonnay and continuing south just past the city of Macon to the very border of Beaujolais.

In the Maconnais there are only communal and regional level wines, there are no grand cru or premiers cru. The vineyard are organised around 43 villages, with the major appellations being Pouilly-Fuisse, St Veran, Vire Clesse, Pouilly-Vinzelles and its sister Pouilly-Loche, Macon-villages (also Macon-Superiors) and its component pieces and finally the wine denoted simply as Macon.

The Vintage

In 2000 there were high yields in both Chablis and the Maconnais but excellent quality. Many vignerons reported that the wine "almost made themselves". The harvest in the Macon and Cote Chalonnaise was earlier than in 1999 and took place under sunny conditions. The crop was almost untouched by rot and sugar came in at 12.5% plus with solid acidities. Chablis enjoyed similar good weather during the harvest and other than 2 days of rain, the weather was cooperative. Sugar levels were excellent for Chablis and came in at 11 to 11.5% for the Chablis and Petit Chablis and 12%+ was routine for the premiers and grand crus. The bans de vendanges were declared as follows:
September 8 - Macon communes wine, eg Pouilly-Fuisse, St Veran, Vire-Clesse, Pouilly-Vinzelles and Loche
September 23 - Chablis and environs

Tasting Notes

Moreau Naudet Chablis 2000
A third of this wine under goes aging in 2-3 year old barrels. The nose is dirty with hints of honey, steel and mineral. It is oxidative and the fruit is fading. The acidity has now become intrusive with the lack of fruit and the finish is weak. It did open up a little after 30 minutes in the glass. (2)

Pinson Chablis 2000
Very much poised on the nose with mineral and wet stone. A bit more oak in this wine gives it creaminess. It is almost flat Champagne like with focus and clean sharp acidity. This is flashier in style than the last wine and with better balance. (3.5)

Dauvissat Chablis 2000
On the nose, this is Chablis with flint, mineral and wet stones. I pick up some dirtiness and reminded me of their 97 Chablis. It is corrupt but with tight structure. Piercing acidity with some citrus overtone. It is a very interesting wine at this level. (3.5)

Saumaize-Michelin Macon Villages Les Sertaux 2000
Macon is about 150 KM south of Chablis, the difference in wine style is clear. This wine is clean with some creaminess on the nose. A good expression of the Chardonnay grape. It is nicely oaked with ripe fruit and good acidity. The finish is a bit simple with some harshness. (2)

Saumaize-Michelin St Veran Les Creches 2000
St Veran is the next-door AC to Pouilly-Fuisse. On the nose, this is very much lime leaves with pear. I quite like the aroma, the palate is fuller with some richness and power. Good length and delightful finish. (3.5)

Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuisse 2000
Honeyed nose with complex array of citrus fruit and minerals. The palate fails to deliver which is simple. The acidity is fresh and the finish is soft. Overall a well made but unexciting wine. (3)

Pinson Chablis 1er Cru La Foret 2000
An immediate notice of quality with the first sniff. This is a much more dense wine compare to the last 6. Still retaining the characters of Chablis with mineral and flint, it is concentrated with lovely full body. Sharp and fresh acidity with the style of Pinson. The use of oak is clever and not over whelming. Complex and long with honeyed finish. This is a lovely Chablis. (4)

Moreau Naudet Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2000
This 1er Cru is similar in style with their basic AC Chablis. I detect some oxidative in the style with honey and ripe pear. Not as rich as the Pinson La Foret, but sharp and focused acidity. There is some bitterness on the finish. Although a good example of the style, it lacks some charm and excitement. (3)

Pinson Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2000
On the nose, it shows quite a bit of oak with sweet smokiness. Flinty and steely forms the platform for the deep, complex mouth feel. It is full of mineral with that buttered toast finish. Very intensive acidity and body. This will need some time to open up, at the moment, it is hard to drink. (3.5)

Moreau Naudet Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2000
After 3 Chablis from this producer, I start to form a picture of his style. This is similar to the Vaillons but with an extra level of concentration. The fruit is intense and the wine is slightly oxidative. It is ripe and vigour with great intensive acidity. Time will soften its edges and polish it into a more complex and pleasant wine. (3.5)

Pinson Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2000
No Chablis tasting can do without Les Clos, this is regarded as the best vineyard in all of Chablis. Pinson's version is quite exciting. The wine is smoky with the first sniff. Extremely deep and concentrated with amplified minerals. A hint of lime adds an extra dimension. Quite a young wine, but already developed a good balance with the fruit and the acidity. The finish is long with hints of creaminess on the back palate. A definite keeper. (4)