The summer of 1986 was dry and hot, and unusually a little light rain in mid-September was welcomed because of concerns over the near-drought conditions. This brief period of precipitation prevented significant dehydration stress and permitted continuing photosynthesis and maturation of the fruit. Unfortunately, however, before the end of the month a storm hit Bordeaux, and this was much less welcome. This storm swept through Graves, Pomerol and St Emilion, with some influence on the more northerly communes. This storm was a crucial factor in determining the quality of the final wines. Those chateaux that harvested immediately after the storm brought in swollen grapes which made poor, dilute wine. Aggressive selection was necessary to produce anything of quality. Those that waited, however, reaped the benefit of several weeks of excellent weather. It is these chateaux that made the most successful wines.

What marks the 1986 vintage is tannin. The tannins originate from the skins of those well-ripened grapes, which were left on the vines for several weeks before harvest. Crop size was down at many of the top properties, which only serves to emphasise the tannin. They are long-lived wines, which require in many cases two decades or more of time in the cellar before they will be approachable. My only concern before the tasting is that some will not have the necessary substance to survive long enough for the tannins to integrate.

The wines

I must say, all of the wines showed extremely well in the tasting. The tannin was there, but most cases, there was enough fruit in the wine to balance the tannin. Just about all of the 1st Growth show no sign of age with still plenty of primary fruit there. The wine of the night for most people was the Lafite, with its perfect balance and power, it will live for at least another 20 years and develop into one of the top Lafite. For me however it was the seductive nose and the elegance and complexity of the Haut Brion that blew me away. It is one of the best Bordeaux that I can remember. Note to myself, buy more 86 when I see them.

Tasting Notes

Chateau Pape Clement (Pessac Leognan) 1986
Brick red with a hint of tawny on the rim, it had a lifted tone with rounded cedar in the glass. Very perfumed with fruit sweetness coming through. The palate is light with good amount of acidity, still some richness left, with medium amount of tannin. Solid wine with sweet and slightly roasted chestnut on the finish. (4-)

Chateau Rausan-Segla (Deuxieme Cru Margaux) 1986
Ripe nose of plum, exotic spice with richness coming though even on the nose, surprisingly primary on the nose. Thick and mouth coating with almost fatness to it. A lot of tannin, but enough fruit there to back it up. Long and complex finish which seems young. (4)

Chateau Leoville Las Cases (deuxieme Cru - St Julien) 1986
One of the highly rated wines of the vintage, first thing you notice about this wine is how thick it is. Scott commented on how it was pouring like liquor. The nose is pure cassis with vanilla and cream. In the mouth it is rich and mouth coating with huge amount of tannin. Still primary fruit like plum and dates present. It is a big wine with powerful extracts and tannin, the tannin may melt with more time and reveal the glorious fruit one day (4+)

Chateau Haut Brion (Grand Cru - Pessac Leognon) 1986
When this wine was first poured, I got some Brett on the nose or is it bottle stink, anyway, it blew off in 10 minutes to reveal a real treat, earth, ripe plum, sweet fruit on the nose with perfumed cigar box. Amazingly complex nose with more and more each time you took a sniff. It did not fall to deliver on the palate as well, complex and rounded. It is at it's peak of development with balance and complexity. Elegant and long finish. You can't help it to stick your nose in the glass every few minutes. A truly magical wine. (5)

Chateau Margaux (Grand Cru - Margaux) 1986
Extremely high toned with some VA on the nose. This is a non-typical Margaux with huge amount of fruit and tannin. Although there are some secondary character coming though, it is still a young wine with rich and tannic palate, beautifully polished finish. (4)

Chateau Lafite Rothschild (Grand Cru - Pauillac) 1986
Muted nose at first, but with some air it start to open. The nose is very much in the dark fruit camp with very much primary fruit dominate. It has started to develop some complex aroma. Few sips later, you realise how balanced this wine is, there is not a single components out of line with beautifully ripe tannin and fruit and firm acidity to make it fresh. This is one of the most complete wine I have tasted in a long time. With time, I feel this will become one of the legendary Lafite of the 80's (5-)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Grand Cru - Pauillac) 1986
You can always tell a mouton from a line up of 1st Growth, this time there is no exception. The nose is vanilla, Cocoa with roasted coffee coming through. Ripe and extremely rich with layers of flavour hint you wave after wave. Big, tannic and firm body with masses amount of fruit to last another 20 years. Not as complex and elegant, but it is true to Mouton's flamboyant style. (5-)

Chateau Latour (Grand Cru - Pauillac) 1986
The Latour is one of the most developed of the 5 with complex, roasted meat. The fruit is well integrated and the oak has softened with the tannin. Still rich and full with some red berry on the mid palate. A lot lighter in style compare with Mouton and Lafite with light finish. Not the best Latour, but a balanced well made Bordeaux. (4)

Chateau D'Yquem 1955
Served as a mystery wine, the lighting wasn't great, but everyone could tell this is a wine with some age on it. Pale tawny with dark golden core, the nose revealed some honey and oxidation. It is almost Madeira like but without the high Alc. It is still sweet on the palate with beautifully developed creaminess, burnt sugar and vanilla. Mouth coating with oil like texture. This bottle has not been stored well, but you can still see a glimpse of it's past. (4 for longevity)